Institute of Historical Studies
Institute of Historical Studies

Program

THE INVENTION OF FOOD
April 27-28, 2017  |  Print-friendly version (updated 4/18/2017)
College of Liberal Arts Building (CLA), Glickman Conference Center
Unless otherwise noted, all events take place in CLA 1.302B


Thursday, April 27

3:00pm  |  Welcome Remarks

Jacqueline Jones, Chair of the History Department and Walter Prescott Webb Chair in History and Ideas/Mastin Gentry White Professor of Southern History, University of Texas at Austin

Seth Garfield, Director of the Institute for Historical Studies and Professor of History, University of Texas at Austin

3:15-4:45pm  |  Panel I: Food and Taste in the Early Modern Period
Chair: Susan Deans-Smith, University of Texas at Austin

Laura Giannetti, University of Miami
"The Sexual Life of Fruit and Vegetables in Sixteenth-Century Italian Poetry"

Rebecca Earle, University of Warwick (United Kingdom)
“The Nature of Nourishment”

Carolyn A. Nadeau, Illinois Wesleyan University
“‘Mas algunos señores no gustan de ello’ [but some lords don’t like it]: Attending to Taste in Francisco Martínez Montiño’s 1611 Cookbook”

Marcy Norton, George Washington University
"Reflections on Embodied and Material History: Chocolate as Technology, Sensation, and Reflexivity c. 1631 & in the Longue Durée"

4:45-5:30pm  |  Reception
CLA Patio, across from 1.302B  [Weather back-up: CLA 1.302D]

5:30-6:30pm  |  Keynote by Darra Goldstein,
Willcox B. and Harriet M. Adsit Professor of Russian, Williams College
Founding Editor, Gastronomica: The Journal of Food and Culture
“Cuisine and the Construction of Russian National Identity”

Friday, April 28


8:30-10:00am  |  Panel II: Food Science and Technology

Chair: Bruce J. Hunt, University of Texas at Austin

Nadia Berenstein, University of Pennsylvania
“Space-Age Flavors and Population Bombs: Flavor Research, Synthetic Foods, and Technologies of Abundance in Cold War America”

Xaq Frohlich, Auburn University
“The Institutional Origins of Nutritionism in the U.S. Today: The FDA’s Turn to Nutrition Labeling in the 1970s"

Jonathan Rees, Colorado State University, Pueblo
"More Than Meat: The Ice Industry and the Transformation of the American Diet"

Helen Zoe Veit, Michigan State University
“Eating Cotton: Making Cottonseed, Crisco, and Other Industrial Food Good to Think”

10:00-10:25am  |  Break

10:30am-Noon  |  Panel III: Food and National Identity
Chair: Nancy K. Stalker, University of Texas at Austin

Ishita Banerjee-Dube, El Colegio de México (Mexico)
"Curry, Kebab, and Authenticity in 'Indian' Cuisine"

Michelle T. King, University of North Carolina, Chapel Hill
“Nation, Regions, Culture, Cuisine: What is Chinese Food?”

Mary Neuburger, University of Texas at Austin
"Gastronomic Geographies: Travel, Tourism, and the Meandering Paths to a National Cuisine in Modern Bulgaria"

Rebekah E. Pite, Lafayette College
”Infusing Regional and National Identities: A History of Yerba Maté in Nineteenth- and Early-Twentieth-Century Argentina and Uruguay”

Noon-1:00pm | Break

1:00-2:30pm | Panel IV: Race, Ethnicity, Migration and the Making of American Foodways
Chair: Madeline Y. Hsu, University of Texas at Austin

Yong Chen, University of California, Irvine
“The Invention of the Chinese American Cuisine”

Roger Horowitz, Hagley Museum and Library
“Industrial Kosher: Embedding Jewish Law in Modern Food Production”

Krishnendu Ray, New York University
"Immigrant Restaurateur and the American City: Taste, Toil and Ethnicity"

Jessica Kenyatta Walker, University of Maryland
“The Invention of Soul Food: Politics of Cuisine in the Soul Aesthetic”

2:30-2:45pm  |  Break

2:45-3:30pm | Concluding Remarks: Rachel Laudan, University of Texas at Austin